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Monday, 8 October 2012

Quetico canoe plans


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Sunday, 7 October 2012

Design 2418 Harrier



The owner of this ocean going motoryacht requested a yacht which would be capable of coastal and Pacific Island cruising, have a low maintenance hull and at all costs avoid the "apartment at sea" appearance.

She was constructed using cold molded techniques and local woods by Brin Wilson, Ltd. of Aukland, New Zealand. She was launched in 1981.

Power is provided by twin Yanmar 6-HAE diesels generating 165 hp each for a top speed of 11.5 knots and fuel consumption of 18.4 gallons per hour. At a cruise speed of 10 knots fuel consumption drops to 10.8 gallons per hour.

Here are the plans.


Principal Dimensions
LOA 61'-3"
LWL 56'-9"
Beam 16'-4"
Draft 4'-7"
Displacement 70,519 lbs


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Saturday, 6 October 2012

All About Wooden Boat Building Products


Wooden Boat Building


Most of the wooden boat building materials that you'll should build your very own boat can be purchased at community marine along with boating offer stores. Nonetheless, you may find the marine shops in your area target supplies pertaining to fiberglass watercraft. If you don't have an area supplier pertaining to wooden boat building supplies, go online for teleordering sources. The world wide web is a great source for all types associated with wooden boat building supplies and data.

These are the important supplies you will need for building any wooden boat:

Lumber

Acquiring lumber on-line or from the catalog inside them for hours it sent is expensive, therefore it makes more sense to get it with a local lumberyard. The top lumber regarding wooden boat building is dried out, sap-free and with since few knot as possible. With no a local lumberyard which carries a particular type of wood which you will want, contact an on-line marine provide company.

Plyboard

You'll find boat plywood in many different price levels and also grades. If you are using cheap particle board, you'll need to seal off it using epoxy plastic resin. This can be frustrating and will increase the cost of the plywood. Getting the best particle board that your finances allows could save you money in the end.

Epoxy and also Glue

Because you shop around pertaining to wooden boat building supplies you can find several different forms of epoxies and glues. Each one has its own objective, so confer with your boat plan to find out which types to purchase for different elements of your fishing boat.

Corrosion-Resistant Fasteners

Every one of the nails, rivets along with screws on your own boat must be made of the corrosion-resistant material for example brass, water piping or stainless. For nails that are underneath the waterline, silicone brown is the suggested material.

Caulk

Determined by your boat's design, you may need to caulk involving the planks to ensure your shell is leak-proof. You'll need to choose whether you wish to use a joints compound or more traditional caulking natural cotton.

Sealants

Use plastic sealants to create a leak-proof seal close to items that tend to be inserted in to the deck of one's boat. This consists of deck components, port lamps and other topside capabilities.

Sailing Components

If you're building a new wooden boat, you'll need several specialized equipment including hindrances, cleats, chocks, shackles along with winches. You'll also need to have a mast, poles and also rigging for your sails. Look at boat plans to get a detailed listing of required cruising hardware.

Concluding Supplies

Guard your boat's wood via sun as well as water simply by sealing that with color or varnish. Use marine shows and varnishes being that they are formulated to resist the underwater environment. Apart from paint as well as varnish, you'll need sanding obstructs, sandpaper, add cloth, wheels, brushes and also paint mixing up cups.

Wooden Boat Resources

Several general-purpose woodworking methods are used for building a wooden boat, integrated saber, music group and table saws, hubs, sanders and energy drills. Check out a marine provide store as well as shop online for almost any additional wooden boat building items and equipment that your fishing boat plans call for.

Wooden Boat Building

Wooden Boat Building


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Marples trimaran design


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Friday, 5 October 2012

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Thursday, 4 October 2012

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Wednesday, 3 October 2012

Sabanis Canoes or Boats


My last entry was a guest blog from Douglas Brooks, who is working on a sabani in Okinawa. He is maintaining his own blog of the project which makes good reading. Consider this post a complement to Douglas's blog.

The day after Douglas's guest post here, I discovered in my possession a booklet on sabanis which had been loaned to me by my colleague Ben Fuller, curator at Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport, Maine. SABANI Canoes of Okinawa, by Katsuhiko Shiraishi, appears to have been self-published (in 1985, I believe, but I can't find the data now). The text is in both Japanese and English, and although the English translation is, unfortunately, awful, the illustrations are very nice indeed. (The cover is shown below; all images in this post are from the same source.)

Whether the sabani is a "canoe" or not is debatable. On the pro side of the argument, it clearly evolved from a dugout canoe. The bottom is a massive cedar dugout, to which one side strake is added on each side (plus small partial strakes to raise the freeboard at the bow and stern. As Douglas Brooks noted, the strakes, too, bear a relationship to dugout practice, as they are not milled lumber, but hewed to shape.

On the other hand, it seems wrong to call anything a canoe that features such massive construction overall, and its shape is hardly canoe-like -- more banks-dory-like in its half-breadths, while the fish-form plan view is unique.
There is a very narrow triangular bow transom that might be considered a stem instead. The stern transom is very close to an equilateral triangle. All pieces are fastened together with dovetail keys, alternating on the inside and outside of the hull. Between each dovetail key is a bamboo nail driven at a very steep angle through one of the exposed plank surfaces so that it edge-nails the bottom to the strakes. (I can't tell if bamboo nails are used similarly at all other joints, or just the bottom-to-side joint.)

In the image below, the bow is on the left. The stern is considerably higher, to help the stern lift with following waves, according to Shiraishi.
Construction begins by fastening the ends of the strakes together, then forcing the strakes apart amidships, which produces a nice curved sheerline. Then the dugout bottom is carved to shape to sit on the bottom edges of the strakes -- as Douglas Brooks noted, this is opposite to the common procedure for producing an extended dugout, in which the dugout is produced first, as a base, and then strakes are added to build up the sides.
On the "it's a canoe" side of the argument, sabanis are paddled, not rowed, as shown below in the picture of a racing version of the boat, used at an annual festival in Okinawa. Note the unusual hand position on the gripless paddle: with the thumbs facing each other. Note also how the flat face of the paddle blade is not the power face.

Shiraishi repeatedly stresses that, due to its narrow beam, the sabani is a fairly unstable boat, prone to capsize especially under sail. (But very pretty under sail, as the image below shows.) It is, however, fairly easy to recover from a capsize. Due to their voluminous wood construction, the raised ends have considerable buoyancy, making the canoe unstable in an inverted position as well. The boatmen turn the boat broadside to a wave and then can easily flip the boat upright. Then they turn it again to face the waves and wait for the bow to lift on a wave while then apply downward pressure on the stern, thus allowing the water to sluice out over the transom. Climb in again, and off they go.

As an aid to turning the capsized boat upright, the mast is easily removed. Note how a pair of easily-removed wedges secures the mast through a square hole in the thwart. Note also the multi-position mast step, which allows the mast to be angled forward or back, depending on the point of sail.


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Monday, 1 October 2012

Heat Exchangers Somethings to consider for cruisers


For most people traveling in "well to do cruising shores", usually have the means to obtain spares quickly. There are some areas though where spares are hard to get, or if freighted in, present customs difficulties; let alone the cost of it all. So, most cruisers carry what they think they will need. We thought we had most areas covered, but when we arrived in Fiji, we had three of our four heat exchangers go bad in less than one month. The transmission heat exchanger had small pin holes which leaked sea water. This was easily fixed with some solder. The main engine heat exchanger presented itself to my wife and I, by us noticing we were loosing engine fresh water from the "small top off tank". We suspected the fresh water was being lost through a hole inside the heat exchanger to the seawater side. Fortunately I had a spare main engine heat exchanger and replaced it out. The old one was sent for cleaning and testing and our suspicions were confirmed by the engineering firm. A small leak inside the heat exchanger.
(BTY, we hunted for a heat exchanger of any kind and could not find one in Fiji. We knew there would be some place that had one, but we felt we were chasing our "tails". So we went to plan "B". Get one where we know we can source one. Read below.)
The last heat exchanger was on the generator. A Fischer Panda (FP).
You will notice the round heat exchanger, under the motor and bottom hose. Just looking at it, I figured that it is going to be one hell of a job to get that out. We reversed flushed the heat exchanger, and got out a handful of particular matter. Inquiries, told us that this stuff actually "grows" inside and even though we fresh water flush the generator after each use, (flushing out the seawater from the heat exchanger) this wasn't enough to prevent stuff growing and blocking the tubes inside the heat exchanger. The flush worked for a while and the generator ran for some weeks, before it started to over heat again.
So, leaving the FP heat exchanger where it was, and removal for a time when we are in a better location, I decided to install another heat exchanger, out side the casing, and one which I could easily get to the hoses and heat exchanger itself. My wife was making a quick trip back to New Zealand, so I had her procure through contacts, a heat exchanger. This was modified with the appropriate hose tail size to fit the hoses used on the FP. I was very lucky to have someone help me with this while I sat in Fiji. Needless to say communication was a major factor in getting this done. Many thanks to Charles Webster.
When, the unit arrived, I set about modifing the cooling system for the new heat exchanger.

The parts, were carefully checked to make sure I had everything. The 19mm radiator hose is not shown in the picture but I had 4 metres of the hose.
The fresh water and raw water side of the FP heat exchanger were identified  and the existing hoses removed from the fittings at the appropiate end. ( the other end was left attached to the FP heat exchanger, making for an easy reversal if needed.) New hoses were run to the outside of the FP casing, by which I had to drill 3 new holes in its base. The new heat exchanger was mounted to a cross member that sits behind the FP and in front of the main engine. The hoses were hooked up and the generator started. I'm pleased to report that the generator now runs for some hours and the water from the exhaust is no longer very hot but is warm to touch and the unit no longer shuts down itself due to over heating.
Some things to consider. I knew the FP heat exchanger was in poor location and if I ever get it out, will probably put removable end caps on it and mount it outside the sound proof casing just like the new one.
The new one works great, but in the next time the boat is laid up, I might also remove, (and now very easy to do so) and have it modified with removable end caps of a screw off nature.
I'll carry more heat exchangers as spares.
I'll carry a propane torch, easy flow rods, and silfos rods. Solder and soldering iron I already carry.
I will always consider the cost of an airfare to be part of my spares, to procure the item I neglected to have the foresight to carry.
As a bonus, the FP now shuts down from the control panel quickly, and I may remove the second solenoid modification, detailed in a prior blog, because it is not needed and the whole issue of not shutting down may have been due to a protective system in the control module. I'll give it another couple of months yet to see if all is well with the shut down. How do your heat exchangers look? Can you clean them easily? Happy cruising!
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