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Saturday 30 October 2010

Brampton Island – An eerie ghost town in paradise


Looking across to Pelican Island from Brampton at low tide.

17-20 October 2015

The next stop on our way North was to be Brampton Island, a place that generated very different memories for the two of us. Rob spent a considerable amount of time on the island in his days as a floor coverings contractor working on the resort’s major redevelopment 28 years ago and has always spoken of it as one of the great Barrier Reef’s most beautiful places. Karen on the other hand has a very different reason for Brampton Island to be etched in her memory.

It was here as a nine year old child that her family took to a life raft and abandoned ship when her parent’s game fishing boat, Wahoo, was trapped anchored on a lee shore with broken steering and a cyclone bearing down on them. After three days, the increasing ferocity of the approaching tropical storm made the risk of staying aboard with two small children too great. The life raft was safely blown onto the beach and after a trek over the island’s mountainous interior they were able to shelter at the resort until the cyclone passed. When conditions eased, Wahoowas found still riding on the three anchors her father had set before making the difficult decision to leave her.

This area of Brampton Island held strong memories for Karen.
Our sail from Keswick and St Bees across to Brampton was far less dramatic. The wind was almost directly astern again with a good size swell rolling under us. As we passed the bay where Karen's experience had occurred it stirred many memories.

The South East swell splashes on Brampton's shores.
 
We rounded the western end of the island and anchored in the bay near the now mothballed resort. It provides excellent protection from South Easterly winds and was to be our home for the next four days.

Keswick/St Bees to Brampton Island - 18.3 Nautical Miles - 4 Hours 0 Minutes
Average Speed 4.6 knots - High Speed 7.7 knots

The anchorage at Brampton provides good protection from the South East trade winds.
Calm water despite 20+ knots of South Easterly wind blowing.
We were now just a day sail away from the Whitsunday Islands.

Brampton Islands super clear water and golden beaches were just as we remembered them.
 
Most of Brampton Island is National Park with the 220 bed resort and its airstrip occupying a relatively small area adjoining the shallow passage between it and Carlisle Island. It was bought by United Petroleum in 2010 and closed the following year. Since then there has been much talk about an all new, seven star resort being built in its place but not a thing has actually been done. What was once a jewel in the string of Great Barrier Reef Island resorts now resembles the set of some sort of horror movie.

Brampton's neglected accommodation blocks are still fully furnished.
 
Karen made the comment that it looks like some alien force descended one day and abducted all the occupants leaving the place an instant ghost town totally devoid of all human life. Accommodation blocks sit fully furnished complete with paintings hanging on the walls. Jet skis sit on their trailers under an awning, Hobbie Cats rest on the sand outside the water sports centre,  outdoor pool tables near reception are ready for a game of eight ball while the stage in the bar silently waits for the long gone musicians to strike up their instruments.

Lonely boats with no one to sail them.

 
Jet skis ready to rock

Sun umbrellas, and beach badminton racquets ready for non-existent holiday makers at the water-sports desk.

Tennis rackets lay on the courts with strings rotting in the tropical sun and the once lush gardens are being reclaimed by nature, now overgrown and covered with fallen palm fronds. The only sign of life on the all par three golf course was a kangaroo bounding down what once a fairway. Rob was extremely sad to see what he remembered as such a vibrant, beautiful resort reduced to this.
Anyone for tennis?


Right down the centre of the fairway.

During our stay at the island, we swam, wandered the golden sand beaches, eat some fantastic food as always and socialised with other cruisers in the anchorage. Karen was thrilled to find Kerri, on the catamaran Quiet Achiever ,was a fellow artist and the two spent time on the beach sketching together.

Karen beach combing.
 
 


Karen used a huge cuttlefish skeleton she found as the centre piece for a still life sketch.
 
You can see a lot more of Karen's art on her Facebook page Karen Oberg Artist
 
Karen's other creative outlet on Our Dreamtime is coming up with amazing new dishes such as these stuffed squid tubes.
 
Her sundowner snacks are always popular in the anchorage

Mackerel steak and Karen's hand made salsa

Caprice Salad - Many of Karen's recipes can be found at the Our Galley page of our blog
 
Rob got a little adventurous and tackled the climb to the top of the island. The various walks through the national park areas of the island are well maintained and take you through a nice range of native vegetation.
 
 
The tree canopy is well populated with birds while goannas and kangaroos seem plentiful. Butterflies float in the air all over the island and are found in their hundreds in groves of trees along the trail.
This goanna was well camouflaged in the dry undergrowth.

One of the locals checking out the visitor



Three of these were sighted but all scooted too fast to get a photo.
 
From the anchorage, the walk to the two lookouts near the summit is almost a ten kilometre round trip and reasonably steep in places. The views from the top make all the effort worthwhile however.
 

 


 



 
Ten kilometres up to the top and back called for a nice refreshing dip to cool off.
Note the butterflies photo bombing this shot.
Our time at Brampton Island passed very quickly. It really is such a nice place it would have been very easy to spend quite a few more days there but the call of the North was still strong.  It was time to keep moving on but we do hope to stop in again on our return trip South.
Two sunset shots for this blog seeing there was none for the last one.
Good night from Brampton Island.
To stay right up to date with what we’re up to  and see lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail Facebook page at Dreamtime Sail on Facebook

  

If you have only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, or work through our previous adventures, click the link to go back to our first blog entry. Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway.  We hope you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.

 

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Decorated Portage Yoke


When I met Pam Wedd of Bearwood Canoes a while back to greet and register for the canoe building course, I mentioned my pyrography and paddle art and that I wanted to do some custom burning on the decking and yoke of the boat. She let me take one of the unfinished, carved cherry yokes that I'd be installing to decorate before the build.


The carved yoke on my messy dining room table

These cherry yokes are by far the most comfortable I've ever tried, with fantastic workmanship and quality cherry for the wood. It seemed to fit perfectly on my shoulders (broader than average) without causing any real pressure points on any protruding bones. The sculpted curvature of the yoke as well as its tapering design on the ends made it challenging for me to come up with a suitable image. At first, I thought about some nature scene, but nothing really fit. Then I thought about some Ottoman Turkish floral designs but they seemed to dainty for this boat. In the end, I went back to the Maori pattern I used on my Cherry Fusion Paddle last year. I found the contrasting, flowy design to be suitable to the curves of the yoke and thought it would be a nice addition when using some of my more tribal paddle art.


Burning the initial lines

Unlike alot of my work that involves transfering images with Saral Transfer paper, I free-handed this one with a basic flow-point, single temperature pyrography pen. After a few days on and off, the basic negative image pattern emerged. Once this is varnished, the natural tone of the cherry with the burned background really looks eye-catching.


The Maori Pattern

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Friday 29 October 2010

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