Tuesday, 12 February 2013
Holding Tank Level Inspection Window
First, I had to design my window and decided for simplicity sake, to use a beckson hatch with a clear screw lid. These have a "O" rind for sealing. To this I mounted it on a half inch piece of ply cut to shape and given 3-4 coats of clear epoxy. Screws were mounted so as not to protrude through the other side. I also didn't want screws to go through into the holding tank and the mounting wooden plate adds some stiffness to the tank. Why wood instead of GRP? I like the idea of being able to reverse anything I do and the wooden base plate would (no pun intended) be easier to cut off.
And the finished inspection/view hatch to the left. It helps to shine a small flashlight up to one side of the clear hatch to get a better view of the level. Plus, now if I want to, I can put a hose in the tank to give it a wash out from time to time.
Thursday, 1 November 2012
Holding Tank Modifications using Polyethylene Pipe
More work to my holding tanks! I alluded to some of the benefits of using polyethylene hose for sanitation hose and you can read about it here.
In preparation for the top fitting, I found the best location; drilled my hole for the polyethylene through hole; and then sanded the area for gluing the fibreglass plate to the tank.
Polyethylene pipe is NOT as flexible as sanitation hose, so you may have to use elbows etc to get it to go where you want to. You can also use boiling water to get a little more curve from the pipe.
Now the outflow is of poor design and should never come from the bottom of the tank, other than a drop down pipe inside the tank, from the top. This is due to the fact that effluent is always in the outflow pipe which leads to permeation I'm using polyethylene pipe from the bottom of the tank and feel confident, there will be no permeation.
Above you can see I used barrel nuts. This makes presenting pipes up to the fittings real easy. In this case I didn't need to use them, but I had bought them with me, so decided to use them.
To the left you can see the macerator pump with barrel nut fittings at both the inlet and outlet. The outlet has a PVC type which was fitted some time ago. On the other side of the barrel nut, I have a joker valve inside the other half of the PVC barrel nut and then a valve. This is because it is pumping up hill and one day I may need to service.
I have now added a polyethylene barrel nut at the inlet side. Also, but not shown, is a threaded pipe (at the inlet side before the barrel nut), which goes to a valve, before joining up with the 38mm pipe from the toilet bowel. IF the pump needs servicing, I just
turn off the valves at either side of the pump; undo the barrel nuts (usually by hand); disconnect power; and pull the pump out. I have a few "boat towels" to mop up the small amount of fluid that will spill.
And let me say, the area smells so much better already. I might even replace the deck pump out hose ( which goes to the "Y" valve. But my wife says, that is just looking for work. Maybe if I get bored sailing?
Listening to "Just Waiting on a Friend" by the Rolling Stones.
Thursday, 29 April 2010
Diy boat fuel tank
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