De Pan

Its been a busy last few months, been working at Street Characters Inc. building mascots. Spent my evenings working on a wooden drawing machine (should upload some photos of that...) and yet another boat for my fleet. This ones a canoe, and I am working to keep it under 15 pounds so I can carry it into backcountry mountain lakes. The complete frame is to the right, it came out at around 10 pounds (4.5 kg). Which is not bad for an 11' boat

Its been a fun boat to build, to keep the weight down I had to use the clearest straight red cedar I could find. The stems and centre thwart are red cedar, and the ribs are local ash wood I got from Drew Beatie, who runs a portable bandsaw-mill.

For those wondering how you build something like this, read on.

This is all the cedar stock, I start by running it through my bandsaw to rip it down to size. I dont have a jointer or a thickness planer so I hand plane all the pieces down smooth. I also dont have a carpenters bench so I use a 2x6 stuck in a workmate and resting on a saw horse for a planing bench. It works great.

This is the creation of the stem pieces (the curved bits at the bow and stern of a canoe) They need to be really strong as they are what you tend to run into things with. I took a piece of yellow cedar, roughly 2.5x3cm and ripped it into thirds. The pieces were then steamed, and bent over a form together.

They hold their shape pretty well once steamed.

I then glued them together with PL Premium construction adhesive. Use a lot of clamps.

The end then gets scarfed into the keel stringer. Most sane people use a table saw to do this. I don't trust mine, so I use a sliding miter saw. Cut a piece of scrap at 45 degrees, and clamp your piece to that. With a bit of futzing on the set up you can get a really accurate 8:1 scarf cut. Just be advised the the offcuts will launch, fortunately away from you.

Installing the stems onto the keel stringer. It would probably be wise to drill a couple dowels to keep the two parts from sliding while you glue them. Learning is fun.

These pieces are the breasthooks for the bow and stern. They attach the ends of the gunwales to the stems. To make them use a sliding bevel gauge to eyeball the angle that the gunwales meet the stem at, average all your measurements and take your best guess and set the miter saw to that.

I tape them up so I dont have to clean off the glue, and then just glue and peg them in place.

This is how you rip long stock in a very small and messy shop. I set up my bandsaw in the middle of the garage so then I can use my miter saw stand as an out-feed. It works better than those roller stands as you cant tip a mitersaw stand over easily. Here I am ripping thin stock off a big hunk of green ash for the ribs.

Once ripped, its back to planing, by hand. Someone finally told me to stick a block of wood at the end of the bench for the piece being planed to rest against. Previously I was clamping the wood down. The block of wood makes life so much easier.

Here is the hull blocked up with temporary ribs. These were left over from a previous experiment at making gluelam ribs. I learned that if you overclamp epoxied joints you squeeze all the glue out. Resulting in a useless rib for a functioning boat, but it works great as a form.

The ribs were steamed and shoved in next to the temporary frame. This was my first experience steaming green wood, and hallelujah I have seen the light. After 15 minutes in the steamer you can pull these out and bend them into a 3 inch radius with no problems at all. And this is 3/8" thick ash wood.

The hardest part of building this boat was working out all the little details, so here is a few shots showing some of the more tricky bits and how I worked them out.
First, this is where the stringers meet the stems. I cut them off at an angle to match the surface. Then tied a couple constrictor knots around the stringers. These keep the lashing from sliding off the front, I then wrapped around both stringers, made a couple frapping turns to secure it, then did a couple loops around the stems.

This is the mini thwart at the bow and stern. I added this piece in because I felt the boat needed a little more wood to keep the gunwales from spreading. Its a simple Y lashing through a hole drilled in the thwart. You can see how the inwale and outwale are also secured with a lashing to hold them together.

The centre thwart is lashed in much the same way. I added in a block of ash between the thwart and gunwale to help spread the load, red cedar is really soft wood. This joint isn't pegged or glued, the lashing holds it in place just fine.
Shot of the final stem piece. The breasthook is glued to the gunwales, but only lashed to the stem. I wasnt sure what to do with the inwales so I just cut them off and lashed them to the outwale.

Stem from a profile view, you can see the scarf joint on the keel stringer. I should probably put a couple lashings on it to secure it.

The complete frame.

For you detail nuts, the dimensions of all the pieces are as follows: (all units cm)
Gunwales: inwale: 1.1 X 4 outwale:1.3 x 4
Stringers: 1.5 x 1.7
Keel stringer: 2.3 x 2
Floorboards: 4 x 0.9
Ribs: 2.6 x 0.9
Stems:2.4 x 2.2
Centre thwart: 3.3 x 2.2 in the centre tapering to 3 x 1.7 at the ends.
End thwarts: 1.1 x 1.77

The overall proportions of the boat are 11' long and 28" wide, its 13" deep amidships and is slightly wider aft of centre.

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After picking up my new batch of wood last week, I've been eagerly anticipating carving another set of paddles. There are still plenty of blade and grip designs yet to try, and in a fury of creativity, I quickly chose and drew out the designs for 7 new paddles.

Earlier today, I ended up spending 3 hours at The Carpenter's Square DIY workshop cutting out the blanks with the bandsaw. In addition I learned the use of a Jointer and Table Saw to square the edges on cutoffs and rip some of the stock into 1/4" strips for future laminated paddles.


New Blanks lined up
The designs (left to right) are Cherry Passamaquoddy Blade with Maliseet Grip; Cherry Passamoquoddy Blade with Athabascan Grip; Birch Attikamek (Tetes de Boule); Birch Beothuk with bobble grip; Birch King Island Single Kayak Blade (a commission piece); Walnut-Poplar Voyageur with tripper grip; Cherry-Poplar-Walnut Beavertail with an Assymetrical grip of my own design. I also cut out a Basswood double bladed kayak for another commission but it just wouldn't fit in the photo. This might be the 1st paddle I work on as there's a deadline for its completion (more photos in another post)

In addition, I still have some blanks left over from that I haven't gotten to yet. These include a Maple-Walnut Whitewater with Battenkill grip; Soft Maple Northwoods; and Poplar Diamond Passamaquoddy. The Walnut-Poplar blank (second from the left) eventually became the Adirondack Owl Paddle made back in March


Older blanks still waiting to be carved

The process of cutting out these single piece paddles created a bunch of offcuts that I saved for use in further laminated blades and other projects. In fact, I ended up using some of the previous offcuts in my growing scraps pile to make miniature paddles for decoration with my bark canoe model. I also used pieces that weren't suitable for paddle making anymore to cut out some spoon blanks. I'll probably end up carving these when I'm back up North and need a TV/Internet/Mass media break.


Spoon blanks and quarter-scale paddle blanks

Looks like there will be flurry of wood-working activity in the weeks to come.

Phil Middleton & Richard O’Connor are planning a mother of a canoe journey down the Mississipi River this spring. Starting at the headwaters of the St. Croix River in northern Wisconsin, their plan is to make it to New Orleans in an aluminum canoe. They've set up a great blog site to document their journey complete with their unique brand of humour.

While Rich has already bonded with a lightweight, cedar bent-shaft paddle, Phil took it upon himself to carve his own for the journey. Turns out he got his lumber stock from Timeless Timber, a unique company that deals in salvaged wood recovered from the murky depths of the Great Lakes. Phil scored a pretty interesting bit of yellow birch with a beautiful grain and documented the construction of his paddle (all handtools) in this post. Great stuff and a memorable way to prepare for this grand adventure!


Phil carving away


Phil's custom paddle for their journey down the Mississipi River

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On my boat, I have half inch water pipe made from a "plastic" and flexible material. Unfortunately, this is now outdated, with most boats now using 15mm flexible pipe. This presents problems with adapting the old to the new. Also, the fittings used to connect this pipe, (black elbow to left) are no longer available and sometimes come apart.
In New Zealand they have a 12.5mm pipe with push in fittings. You would think the half inch pipe might fit...., but no, it doesn't.
So here's how I have over come this problem...
Fortunately this plastic pipe is similar in size to copper half inch pipe and the compression fittings are available at most plumbing hardware stores.


To the right is a photo of old and new fittings used to attach to the faucet at the sink.










To the left is the new compression fitting disassembled. To the inside, is a rubber ring and star washer to grip the pipe.










Compare the above photo to the plastic one to the right. They work in a very similar fashion.











The fittings come in a number of arrangements. I bought a straight connector, a "T", and end threaded adapter.









To the right, the nut goes on first, then the star washer, followed by the rubber washer. Once the pipe is inserted into the fitting, the nut is screwed down to secure the pipe.








Now, the fitting, made for copper pipe, doesn't quite fit the plastic pipe, so a little modification has to be done.
First, use a dremel stone to slightly enlarge the hole in the center of the compression nut so that it slides over the plastic pipe. It only needs a "human hair" thickness taken off.






The pipe also has to fit the fitting. This requires a little sanding on the end so the pipe fits, snugly.
You can see that, in the photo to the right.









When assembling, slide the fitting onto the end of the pipe and mark with a felt pen. Slide off the fitting and then with the nut first, slide on the star washer with the points towards the yet to be fitted copper fitting. Slide this on till just past the pen line so that when the rubber washer is placed, it is is pushed on till just past the pen line.






To the right is the fitting about to have the nut screwed on to make the compression. Once that is done, regular plumbing fittings can be attached.









I've also had success with another type of compression fitting using a copper compression sleeve shown to the left. However, on occasion, some of these have leaked due to the copper sleeve not being perfectly aligned before compression. One has to remove a short piece of the pipe, (because the compressed sleeve is almost impossible to get off) and place a new compression sleeve on and make sure it is seated correctly before tightening up. It seems to me, the compression fitting with the rubber washer is a better fit and can be reused if one has to undo the nut.

Another method, show to the right is to get a hose tail with a plumbing threaded end, and attach with a suitable hose clip , or for a more secure fitting, use the wire tightener, and it's use can be viewed here.