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A previous post showed off some of Kent Lund's paddle designs including a replica of the 19th century folk art "Snake Paddle" posted on the Gould Auctions site. Here's a shot of his latest creations - another snake paddle (curly maple and cherry) and a native inspired paddle made from sassafras


Snake Paddle; Sassafras Paddle
Kent's 2nd snake paddle includes an interesting twist...a carving of a frog swallowed by the snake that makes up the shaft of the paddle.


Swallowed Frog
This one is also has a thinner blade (planed to 5/16th) compared to the first edition. Here are the 2 sides of the curvy tail - one painted, the other left in its natural cherry grain...


Here are closeups of the grips - a standard grip on the snake paddle and a flattened grip on the Sassafras version, which includes some decorative patterns made from a nail.


Grip designs


Decorative Pattern
After completing these fun paddle designs, I say Kent is the resident snake paddle expert.

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Came across another treasure trove of paddle information on Archive.org. This publication entitled, Material culture of the Davis Inlet and Barren Ground Naskapi outlines enthographic items collected by William Duncan Strong from the Davis Inlet and Barren Ground Naskapi in 1927-1928.

Plate 49 (pg 89) features a diagram of 4 decorated Naskapi paddles accompanying the model canoes in the collection...


Naskapi Paddles in the Strong Collection
These are, not surprisingly, very similar to the sketches in Garth Taylor's, 1980 publication, Canoe construction in a Cree cultural tradition which I used in the painted decoration of my Bushcraft Cree spruce paddle. Pgs 19-20 contain a book contains a brief write-up on these paddles:

The collection contains seven canoe paddles, with handles approximately half the length of the blades or slightly less. The blades are flat or have a slight ridge down the center and vary in width from 7.5 cm to 11.5 cm. The handles widen slightly and are flattened at the end. Only two specimens show signs of use. The blades of five paddles are decorated; the decoration on the illustrated specimens, in orange pigment, red crayon, and indelible pencil, is typical (fig. 49A-D). The partridge design and a motif which Strong (1928e) called "whale tails" occur on one paddle (fig. 49B). These bands of decoration appear to be a common feature on paddles, at least as far west as the Cree around Great Whale River (Taylor, p. 94, fig. 9).

Many nations have issued postage stamps featuring dugout canoes. There's a whole page of them here.

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With the building bed all prepared and the bark cleaned, the next step was to prepare the canoe's hull. I mentioned earlier the the bark panels provided with the kit were of insufficient length to form a 1-piece hull. This meant that the hull would have to be lapped - a technique described in Jim Millers's fantastic DVD.

The dilemma I had was that the two pieces of usable hull bark had large knotholes in perfectly akward places. Which ever way I oriented the panels, there would be a gaping hole right at the delicate bow/stern or right under the centre thwart..not acceptable. To get around this dilemma, I was forced to to cut one of the bark panels into pieces so as to remove the centered knothole and build a three piece hull.


Central Panel; Cutting out knothole; placement of panels below form
The bark was placed white-side-up under the form and starting from the stern, the panels placed on top of each other moving towards the bow, like laying shingles. The pieces are supposed to overlap 2" in a full scale model, so for my ¼-scale model that meant ½" lap. Effectively this means some overlap ridges on the bottom of the canoe, but these will be sewn and sealed with pitched to make a watertight seal. In also means that this canoe model will in fact have a distinct bow & stern, unlike may 1-piece hulls that are symmetrical at either end.


Overlap at bow; Overlap at stern
The bed was moved out to the balcony and boiling water was liberally poured onto the bark & the weighted down frame (weighed down with some heavy block planes). At intervals of 3", gores were cut into the bark ensuring that they were cut perpendicular to the frame edge - that's why they look like they are on an angle. The cutting was done with a utility blade angled towards the stern to get a thinned edge.


Softening the bark with boiling water; Cutting a gore
With the gores cut, the bark was carefully folded up and held into position with the ¼" dowels serving as stakes. To ensure even pressure along the sides, scrap pieces of cedar, serving as battens, were sandwiched between the bark and dowels. Once I finished these outer stakes, I placed square ¼" dowels (not included in the kit, purchased at Canadian Tire) with their bottoms shaved to a point on the inside of the hull. These were placed carefully to fit in the small space between the bark and edge of the plywood frame. Then the inner stave and outer stake were tied with scraps of leather lace to effectively shape the hull.


Folding up the bark; Tying the first inner stave & outer stake combination
After all the inner staves were tied off and done, the outer stakes were tensioned to vertical by tying additional lacing across each pair of dowels. Now the soaking bark needs to dryout for a few days to permanently form the hull shape. Starting to look like a canoe!


Inner staves positioned; Tensioned hull with cross lacing
Items up next include the most difficult part in my opinion...carving the gunwales - the real backbone of the canoe. Scaling them down to quarter scale means that these structures will be quite delicate. We'll see how it goes in another post.

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