Monday, 28 February 2011
Penobscot Bark Canoe Complete
A birch bark canoe of Penobscot Indian design has been built by a team led by Steve Cayard on the grounds of the Penobscot Marine Museum, Searsport, ME. The project took two weeks and resulted in a very fine craft. See over 100 photos documenting the process here.
Sunday, 27 February 2011
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Saturday, 26 February 2011
Varnished Paddles
With warmer temperatures and glorious sunshine on this spring day, I got a chance to quickly revarnish two of my previous paddles from this past winter - The Walnut Kingfisher Solo and Cherry Bittern. Varnishing has obviously darkened the pyrography considerably (especially the walnut paddle), but I'm still happy with the results.
Cherry Bittern Paddle
Blade Closeup
Walnut Kingfisher Paddle
Blade Closeup
Thursday, 24 February 2011
The Place From Where Folktales Come
I get an early start on a rising tide on what is a rather frigid day, 10-15 mph west winds coming and 30 F temperatures. It is early enough in the tide that I have to slide and push the canoe through 10 yards of shin deep silty mud to get to water. It leaves me breathing hard...harder than when I portage the canoe. I paddle the first hundred yards with both feet over the side rinsing the mud from my boots.
Marshes are at their best at the beginning and end of the day. Morning is a time of rapid change as birds come out of their night huddles greeting the warmth of the sun and beginning their search for food. Today, teal are numerically the most dominate birds. They are on migration to the north. They flush from a long distance in flocks of two to three dozen, whirling in formation and settling somewhere else in the marsh. I'm sure that I see more than a hundred and I only identify them because I brought my binoculars along, it takes three attempts before I get a chance to look at them while they are still floating. They are always too far off to bother with my camera.
Milford Point in detail |
When there is nothing to see, I notice that I am telling stories in my head...this is the place from where folktales come from, but it is just a taste, such things take much longer than today's trip.
Wednesday, 23 February 2011
Kicking back in Torreveija and on to Alicante
Lurking there in the grey are huge fish farms we needed to dodge. |
Marc and Karen enjoying sundowners in Alicante Marina with the castle in the background |
Torreveija to Alicanti 26.7 Nautical Miles (All under engine - Bugger) Average Speed 5.8 Knots Max 7.4 Knots |
The Crude Elegant Dhow
There appears to be a big difference in the approach to workmanship between Western (i.e., European/North American) boatbuilding and that of the dhow world. While the design of traditional Western working boats may have varied, from "workmanlike" to pure grace, workmanship tended to be quite high. Good enough was rarely good enough, and even the simplest and most pragmatic of working craft -- Banks dories come to mind -- tended to be built with cleanly-cut frames, nicely lined-off planks, and in general, evident pride of workmanship.
This doesn't seem to have been the case among dhow builders. Dhow designs are often lovely, sometimes elegant: as shown in the photo of a boom above, their hollow entries tend to merge beautifully along the waterlines into rather wide, square bilges, and there's an ineffable grace to the settee sail in its great variety of rigs. But workmanship tended toward -- no, that's too kind -- let's say favored -- the crude.
Construction began with the backbone (keel, stem and sternpost). Most had their planks assembled before frames were installed, being held together temporarily with external blocks or battens. No forms or moulds were used, so achieving the proper hull form required a really sophisticated understanding of plank shapes -- all the more impressive given the total absence of drawn plans. Contrary to popular belief, however, frame-first construction did occur in in many cases, with the frames being set up on the backbone, Western-fashion, before planking began. Scantlings were quite light by Western standards, but then again, the Indian Ocean isn't the North Atlantic.
In either case, only the outboard surfaces of the frames were flattened or squared up with an adze -- and that done rather roughly. All three inboard surfaces of the frames were left "natural" -- i.e., in the round, with the bark still attached. A look at the interior of a dhow's hull looks positively primitive. (Framing was often done with what was called "jungle wood" which, I believe, was mangrove.) In the picture below, showing a small boom under construction, every other frame butts against the keel, while those in between use natural curves to pass over the keel from one side to the other.
As late as the 1970s, dhows were being built with hand tools, sawing being done by hand, and drilling with bow drills. Plank fastenings were typically iron nails, driven in from the outside and clenched over into the inboard surface of the frames. Construction often occurred on a beach with no proper shipbuilding facilities whatsoever.
Launching from the beach was a strange procedure. As shown in the drawing below, logs were placed beneath the keel, and these were lashed tightly to lengths of timber laid across the gunwales, so that the dhow was held upright inside a vertical square framework at each end. The lower logs rested on skids. Baulks of timber were suspended by ropes from the upper timbers. Shipbuilders would pull back on these baulks and then release them; they would swing forward and strike the transverse logs with a great "thunk," inching the dhow forward over the skids. The procedure was repeated as many times as needed until the dhow reached the sea. A windlass was also used to pull the vessel along.
(All information and photos from The Dhow: an illustrated history of the Dhow and its World, by Clifford W. Hawkins, Nautical Publishing Co. Ltd., 1977.)
Tuesday, 22 February 2011
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Monday, 21 February 2011
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Saturday, 19 February 2011
Design 322 Raceabout
This article tells the story better than I can. Double click for bigger view.
We don't know how many boats were built to this design. I think it's clear that this design never usurped the appeal and popularity of the Star Class.
LWL 19'-4"
Beam 5'-8"
Draft 3'-4"
Friday, 18 February 2011
Creating Stem Pieces and Headboards
After the canoe's ribs were done, I set out to shape another of the canoe's key structural components - the stem pieces. In my model, I purposely chose a very simple stem piece style with a slight curve in the bottom and a nearly upright vertical rise. This is in contrast to a lot of old style Algonquin, Ojibway, and Fur Trade canoes which had elaborate stem pieces and required much more skilled craftmanship. Both Jim Millers's DVD and César's Bark Canoe film show old school Algonquin recurved stems and seemed a bit too intimidating.
Instead, I elected to go for an Abenaki syle that was quite similar to the stems of modern touring canoes. A nearly vertical stem profile would mean better tracking ability and the limited curve of the stem would mean less likely breakage - a concern after my disappointment in attempting to carve the gunwales. Adney's sketch for this stem also revealed that it is inverted compared to most others. In otherwords, the solid end of the stem (white part) protudes slightly above the gunwales with the split end (dark part) of the stem is embedded on the bottom of the boat all supported with a thin headboard under tension squeezes below the gunwales. Most stem pieces feature the solid portion on the bottom, with the laminated part of the stem at the top, cut flush with the gunwale cap.
The process started by using my poster-sized, quarter scale bluprint from Adney's book and crudely tracing the image of the stem piece on paper. This was then transfered to a corner of the building bed with transer paper and ¼" holes were drilled around the shape to fit some spare dowels provided by the kit. This would be the "form" around which the stem pieces were bent into shape.
Marking the dowel holes; Completed bending form
The stem pieces were scavenged from strips of broken gunwale stock that snaped during the early carving process. I was able to use a piece of appropriate dimension & horizontal grain to make 4 stem pieces in case any broke during bending. Each would be split nearly 2/3rd of its length into 4 laminations to accomodate the curve. Once these were done they were soaked in boling water to soften the wood and begin the bending.
Scavenged gunwale piece; Near horizontal grain; Split stem pieces in boiling water
Carefully, a selected piece was bent around the frame and the bottom tied off. In a full sized model, the traditional material for this is basswood bark. Since this wasn't provided by the kit and I didn't want to use any split spruce root (in case I ran out for lashing), I ended up using non-traditional waxed linen thread from left over leather-craft projects. It worked perfectly and helds its knots easily without slippage.
Wrapping the stems and bending on the form
With the two stem pieces drying out I turned my attention to making other structure - the headboards (aka manboards, shoulderboards, struts). Various styles exist, some straight, some curved. I wanted to keep mine simple so carved a basic vertical structure similar to most old style Algonquin canoes. The bottom has a rectangular "legs" that fits over the stem piece tightly while the top has "shoulders" and a round "head" to squeeze under the inwales. The whole structure gives the ends a rigid structure while also helping to lift the gunwales at the ends. I decided to try a practice one first in case I had more cedar distasters. With that ok, two more quality blanks (1/8" thick) were prepared and carved out.
Practice headboard and two cedar blanks
I won't be able to insert the stems pieces or headboards for a while (at least until the bulk of the canoe a sewn up with spruce root), so in the meantime I'll be carving other parts like the permanent thwarts and sheathing.