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More work to my holding tanks! I alluded to some of the benefits of using polyethylene hose for sanitation hose and you can read about it here.
 The first thing I did was remove the input hose and fitting, to the holding tank which was located on the side of the tank. Last year, I had relocated the tank air vent to the top and did a temporary block off, of the old side air vent. You can read about that here. That was located just above and to the side of this fitting seen to the left. I used a Dremel and hacksaw to make the cut of the bronze fitting.
 I prepped the area to get ready to epoxy glue on a cover over the old fittings. Old paint removed and each opening stuffed with toilet paper so that the glue would not full into the tank. The glue is made from two pot epoxy (slow set) with silica powder/binder added until you get the consistency of thick peanut butter.
 To the left is the finished fibreglass plate epoxied to the tank. This year I decided to use some off cuts of fibreglass which are cut out when the boats are removed from the molds. Typically, they are window cutouts and hatch cutouts which are then discarded. You local fibreglass boat builder will have plenty of these to give away.


In preparation for the top fitting, I found the best location; drilled my hole for the polyethylene through hole; and then sanded the area for gluing the fibreglass plate to the tank.








To the left is the finished fitting. You might notice that the black hose it is attached to is polyethylene pipe.
Polyethylene pipe is NOT as flexible as sanitation hose, so you may have to use elbows etc to get it to go where you want to. You can also use boiling water to get a little more curve from the pipe.







To the right you can see the 25mm polyethylene pipe running down and through the wall where it goes to the macerator pump. The bigger 38mm (inch and a half) pipe runs from the bottom of the tank to the "Y" valve and then the polyethylene pipe continues on to the pump out pump. A diaphragm pump with joker valves each end.
Now the outflow is of poor design and should never come from the bottom of the tank, other than a drop down pipe inside the tank, from the top. This is due to the fact that effluent is always in the outflow pipe which leads to permeation  I'm using polyethylene pipe from the bottom of the tank and feel confident, there will be no permeation.

Above you can see I used barrel nuts. This makes presenting pipes up to the fittings real easy. In this case I didn't need to use them, but I had bought them with me, so decided to use them.
To the left you can see the macerator pump with barrel nut fittings at both the inlet and outlet. The outlet has a PVC type which was fitted some time ago. On the other side of the barrel nut, I have a joker valve inside the other half of the PVC barrel nut and then a valve. This is because it is pumping up hill and one day I may need to service.
I have now added a polyethylene barrel nut at the inlet side. Also, but not shown, is a threaded pipe (at the inlet side before the barrel nut), which goes to a valve, before joining up with the 38mm pipe from the toilet bowel. IF the pump needs servicing, I just
turn off the valves at either side of the pump; undo the barrel nuts (usually by hand); disconnect power; and pull the pump out. I have a few "boat towels" to mop up the small amount of fluid that will spill.
And let me say, the area smells so much better already. I might even replace the deck pump out hose ( which goes to the "Y" valve. But my wife says, that is just looking for work. Maybe if I get bored sailing?
Listening to "Just Waiting on a Friend" by the Rolling Stones.

On my boat, I have half inch water pipe made from a "plastic" and flexible material. Unfortunately, this is now outdated, with most boats now using 15mm flexible pipe. This presents problems with adapting the old to the new. Also, the fittings used to connect this pipe, (black elbow to left) are no longer available and sometimes come apart.
In New Zealand they have a 12.5mm pipe with push in fittings. You would think the half inch pipe might fit...., but no, it doesn't.
So here's how I have over come this problem...
Fortunately this plastic pipe is similar in size to copper half inch pipe and the compression fittings are available at most plumbing hardware stores.


To the right is a photo of old and new fittings used to attach to the faucet at the sink.










To the left is the new compression fitting disassembled. To the inside, is a rubber ring and star washer to grip the pipe.










Compare the above photo to the plastic one to the right. They work in a very similar fashion.











The fittings come in a number of arrangements. I bought a straight connector, a "T", and end threaded adapter.









To the right, the nut goes on first, then the star washer, followed by the rubber washer. Once the pipe is inserted into the fitting, the nut is screwed down to secure the pipe.








Now, the fitting, made for copper pipe, doesn't quite fit the plastic pipe, so a little modification has to be done.
First, use a dremel stone to slightly enlarge the hole in the center of the compression nut so that it slides over the plastic pipe. It only needs a "human hair" thickness taken off.






The pipe also has to fit the fitting. This requires a little sanding on the end so the pipe fits, snugly.
You can see that, in the photo to the right.









When assembling, slide the fitting onto the end of the pipe and mark with a felt pen. Slide off the fitting and then with the nut first, slide on the star washer with the points towards the yet to be fitted copper fitting. Slide this on till just past the pen line so that when the rubber washer is placed, it is is pushed on till just past the pen line.






To the right is the fitting about to have the nut screwed on to make the compression. Once that is done, regular plumbing fittings can be attached.









I've also had success with another type of compression fitting using a copper compression sleeve shown to the left. However, on occasion, some of these have leaked due to the copper sleeve not being perfectly aligned before compression. One has to remove a short piece of the pipe, (because the compressed sleeve is almost impossible to get off) and place a new compression sleeve on and make sure it is seated correctly before tightening up. It seems to me, the compression fitting with the rubber washer is a better fit and can be reused if one has to undo the nut.

Another method, show to the right is to get a hose tail with a plumbing threaded end, and attach with a suitable hose clip , or for a more secure fitting, use the wire tightener, and it's use can be viewed here.