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Now that the exterior of the 14ft Chestnut / Peterborough was finished (Part 1 Link), it was time to start the superficial work on the woodwork. Didn't want to strip the interior since the aged patina looked pretty solid. After a simple sanding to roughen the surface, another coat of spar varnish was put on just to freshen the surface.

The original ash seats had long since lost their cane, so the previous owner simply used prewoven can and roughly jammed the edges through the existing seat holes. These have dried into place and are pretty solid. Obvious though that that last used wasn't a kneeler, because these rough cane ends would scratch and annoy the back of the legs.



Ending up using garden snips and a crooked knife to cut the cane ends as close as possible to the bottom of the seat. A basic sanding and things smoothed out sufficiently to not snag during kneeling. The seat cane is still firmly in place.




At some point the seats had been taken out and put back with 3/16 Robertson machine screws. The original steel carriage bolts probably had rusted beyond usage.



Ended up getting some brass bolts, but my source only had 6" in stock despite mentioning 4" ones being listed in stock on their site. A little extra work but they were cut down using a hacksaw and installed.




The glue on the outwale scarf joints has failed over time. These were simply epoxied back together with some additional wood filler used to fill out the chips and gaps.





When the canoe gets new canvas in a few years, the outwales with their rusted screws will be completely removed. I might replace them and go with a lighter weight wood in the future. But for now this one is ready for the water.

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A different feature of the Woods Pack compared to the Duluth style is the use of a single leather anchor for both the top flap straps as well as the tump strap buckles. Less stitching and more simple design. On this pack the leather anchors were still quite sound (top rivet hole compromised), but I thought it was still salvageable if a new rivet was simply inserted a little lower. The worn original straps were replaced with 36" long x 1" wide latigo.


Original leather anchor; New flap strap inserted
In front of this strap would be the tumpline buckle. With a folded strip of thin leather (slightly different colour) and a brass buckles (doesn't match the faded steel of the original), the tump buckle was created. A bit tricky to get all the holes lined up for the rivet. After pounding and setting the rivets in with an additional piece of backing leather on the inside (not shown), I realized I made the strap a bit too long and the buckle kept slipping down too much. Another hole was punched and a brass Chicago screw was mounted to secure the buckle into place. Bit of a mistake, but at least the screw matches the brass buckle so the whole thing doesn't clash too much. For symmetry, I ended up doing the same thing for the other buckle strap.


Tump buckle material; Rivetted into place
Buckle holes were punched in the flap strap at 1" intervals and a test run was done by stuffing the pack up with mounds of dirty laundry. The beauty about this design is that the straps can be placed over the topflap parallel (useful to secure a sleeping pad or other gear to the top of the pack) or cross ways to pack akward shaped items. Here are the two configurations below.

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Parallel straps; Cross over closure
The project is nearly done. All that is needed is the making of a tump for the pack, which should be easy given that I made one already for the canoe. This one will be rivetted however.

Dec 13/09 Update - Pack is now complete. See last stage pics here