Sunday, 19 February 2017
Crooked Knife Making Part 2 Tempering Blade
When last posted, the rusty file destined to be my crooked knife blade had been softened and ground down by hand over many laborious days. The edge of the manufactured blade had also been shaped with a file to a more shallow cutting angle. After working on the blades, creating the angled edge, and polishing off as many toolmarks as possible (still left a few), it was time to finally temper them.


Filing off the teeth; Blade shaped and polished
This involved heating the file back up to a cherry red colour (in an outdoor firepit), quickly bending the tip to the desired angle with pliers, reheating to cherry red and then dumping it into cooking oil to quickly quench and harden the steel (the manufactured blade was already bent, so it was simply heated and quenched). I planned to do this at dusk so that I could see the colour of the heated file more accurately. Since the steps had to be done rather quickly in near darkness, all the required stuff was layed out in an organized fashion. I used a small metal vice/anvil place the blade flat while bending the tip with pliers; a tall & narrow tea can seemed perfect to hold the 450 ml of Sunflower oil to do the quenching. Taking pics of the each step was not an option while working alone, but I did manage to take one blurry shot of the bent blade right before it was dunked in the oil


Ready to go; Quenched in cooking oil
All went well. I was expecting the oil in the can to burst into flames when the superheated steel was immersed but all that ended up was sizzling and the smell of french fries. Once it cooled down a bit, the metal was quickly tested with a hacksaw (not in the pics) to see if it was still soft but the blade simply bounced off the steel without any bite. The quenching had worked. Next morning, the blades were examined and of course were covered in disgusting residue that would need to be polished off. Here are the before and after shots.


Grime after quenching; Quick polishing
These were going to be working knives so I didn't bother polishing them to a mirror finish, just sufficient enough to be clean. The other reason for polishing at this stage is because some of the temper needs to be drawn out otherwise the blades may snap under pressure. This involved baking in the home oven at 450F for about an hour until a straw colour appears on the blade. Baking without polishing first means lots of unnecessary smoke in the kitchen.
This stage went well and next up will be a post documenting the making of the handles.
Update Oct. 2/09: Part 3 on making the handle has been posted.
Friday, 2 September 2016
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Friday, 15 April 2016
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Monday, 18 January 2016
Chestnut Peterborough Refurbish Part 2
Now that the exterior of the 14ft Chestnut / Peterborough was finished (Part 1 Link), it was time to start the superficial work on the woodwork. Didn't want to strip the interior since the aged patina looked pretty solid. After a simple sanding to roughen the surface, another coat of spar varnish was put on just to freshen the surface.
The original ash seats had long since lost their cane, so the previous owner simply used prewoven can and roughly jammed the edges through the existing seat holes. These have dried into place and are pretty solid. Obvious though that that last used wasn't a kneeler, because these rough cane ends would scratch and annoy the back of the legs.

Ending up using garden snips and a crooked knife to cut the cane ends as close as possible to the bottom of the seat. A basic sanding and things smoothed out sufficiently to not snag during kneeling. The seat cane is still firmly in place.

At some point the seats had been taken out and put back with 3/16 Robertson machine screws. The original steel carriage bolts probably had rusted beyond usage.

Ended up getting some brass bolts, but my source only had 6" in stock despite mentioning 4" ones being listed in stock on their site. A little extra work but they were cut down using a hacksaw and installed.


The glue on the outwale scarf joints has failed over time. These were simply epoxied back together with some additional wood filler used to fill out the chips and gaps.


When the canoe gets new canvas in a few years, the outwales with their rusted screws will be completely removed. I might replace them and go with a lighter weight wood in the future. But for now this one is ready for the water.

Friday, 4 December 2015
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Tuesday, 21 July 2015
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Saturday, 20 December 2014
Birdsmouth Mast Day 2

The duck tape worked fine to hold the scarf joint together while the epoxy set over night. Additionally I lightly clamped all the staves together separated by polythene sheets against the side of the ladder which further ensured that everything was held straight in both vertical and horizontal planes.

Then assisted by Brian, we ran the staves through the planer to clean up the saw marks and reduce the staves to their final thickness, 13.6mm. Once again the ladder made for a very serviceable outfeed table.
Once we had the staves dimensioned we cut the lengths to the approximate size of 23' which allowed us remove several feet from the least attractive ends of the staves and also resulted in the scarf joints being positioned more randomly along the mast.
Next came the process of cutting the birdsmouth V notches in the sides of the staves. We set up the table saw using two featherboards which resulted in a consistent clan notch cut from the staves, except for the last few inches where the stave ran past the feather board. This shouldn't cause any issue as we have cut the staves extra long by some 7 inches.

So next on the agenda is to cut the taper into the staves on the side opposite to the V notch. I have not yet decided whether to make up a jig for te table saw or simply place all the staves side by side and use an electric and hand plane to cut out the tapers.

Monday, 17 November 2014
Cherry Edged Beothuk Part 2
Another paddle awaiting some attention was my attempt at a cherry edged, birch-cherry laminated paddle based on a surmised Beothuk design documented in Adney's sketches. Unfortunately the sharp recuve at the tip was too much for the cherry striped edging and the glue did not hold when the clamps were removed. The rest of the blade was fine so in order to salvage this paddle, I redrew the tip a bit higher and re-cut the blade with this ultimately, more narrow tip. A while back, I had set up the shaving horse outdoors and did some work in the brisk spring sunshine.


Split Edging; Redrawn blade

Working on the shaving horse
Adney documented the surmised grip on this paddle as a spherical bobble and this would be my first attempt at something like this. Given the cherry edging, I thought it appropriate to laminate some extra cherry pieces onto the grip which could then be eventually shaped into a sphere. The approximate grip size sketched on the birch (with internal sketches of an octagon) was cut when originally shaping the blank. Additional blocks of scrap cherry were cut to size and then sawn to remove the angled edges resulting in an octagon effect when glued up. The plan is to further shape it with a rasp down to a bobble shape confortable in the hands. Here are some images.



The initial square grip with sketching; Cherry pieces, Glued up
I still haven't worked on the paddle shaft yet as there is more fine tuning to do on the blade region, but here is the work in progress so far...

Sept 1/09 Update: Part 3 has now been posted.
Sunday, 5 October 2014
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